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A new generation of surfers is paddling out into frigid winter lineups with thinner wetsuits — or sometimes none at all. Is it climate confidence, social media courage, or something more reckless? We dig into the data, talk to coaches, and break down what's actually going on out there.
A growing number of American surfers are peeling off their neoprene and paddling into frigid lineups with nothing but board shorts and sheer stubbornness. We dug into the science, talked to the diehards doing it, and tried to figure out whether this is a legitimate lifestyle shift or just the most committed flex in surf culture.
Mass-produced boards ship fast and cost less — but they can't tell you anything about the break you surf every morning. Across the US, a passionate network of independent shapers is crafting boards tuned to specific waves, specific surfers, and a specific philosophy that no factory can replicate. Here's who they are, what they're building, and how to find one near you.
Tired of fighting forty strangers for a waist-high closeout at the most-tagged beach on Instagram? The good news is that within two hours of almost every major US metro, there are waves worth finding — if you know where to look and how to show up right.